Uruguay is an underrated destination that is easy to miss on a map. Squeezed between the South American giants of Brazil to the north and Argentina to the south, it is the second smallest sovereign country on the continent and one of the least visited. Even though Uruguay boasts its fair share of estancias (cattle ranches) and gaucho culture, thriving wine regions, beautiful beaches, and colonial-era sights – it is often overlooked in comparison to its more popular neighbors. I aimed to rectify this oversight by doing my small part, with a short stop in Uruguay’s capital Montevideo while returning home from a work trip to Paraguay.

Montevideo had the feel of a small European city, with wide tree-lined boulevards, grass-covered medians and dedicated bike and running paths all over. There was a heavy focus on technology and automation for efficiency, starting with the airport. From touchdown at Carrasco Airport to clearing customs and getting into an Uber took under thirty minutes – a personal record for South America. The city itself is compact and highly walkable, so I managed to cover a fair amount even though my visit was too short. Below are my top 10 recommendations on how to enjoy modest yet mighty Montevideo.

1. Spend the Night In the Iconic Palacio Salvo

Palacio Salvo is a unique building dominating the Plaza Independencia square, and the unofficial emblem of Montevideo. Completed in 1928, the building was briefly the tallest structure in South America at 106 meters. I thought the building looked like an elaborate chess piece, or an ornately decorated jewelry box. It features an eclectic mash-up of different architectural styles – from Art Deco and Neo-Gothic, to Renaissance. My AirBnB stay was in one of the tower units on the 19th floor of Palacio Salvo, and was definitely one of the more memorable places I’ve spent a night anywhere. The unusual curved angles, curious room shapes, thick concrete walls and lookout windows over the city made it seem like a Gaudi-esque abode. The vantage points form the balconies were perfect to catch the sunset at dusk and the sunrise at dawn.

2. Explore Plaza Independencia and the Old Fort Gate

Plaza Independencia is the official centre of the city, flanked by the looming Palacio Salvo to the east and a stone gate from the original colonial-era fortifications to the west. The square is anchored by an equestrian bronze statue of José Artigas – a national hero who led Uruguay’s struggle for independence from Spanish rule and is considered its founding father.

3. Wander the Cobblestones of Ciudad Vieja

Ciudad Vieja is the colonial old quarter occupying the western tip of the Montevideo peninsula. Narrow cobbled streets are lined with pastel-painted houses draped in bougainvillea, with ornate ironwork balconies and colourful window frames. A variety of street vendors sell crafts, produce and a variety of knick knacks along the pedestrian only Sarandi street. It seemed rather modern by ‘old historic town’ standards, but nevertheless had some colonial era buildings still standing.

4. Seek Silent Solitude at the Metropolitan Cathedral

The Catedral Metropolitana sits on the edge of Plaza Constitución at the heart of Ciudad Vieja. The interior is richly gilded with painted ceilings, elaborate altarpieces, and stained glass that belie the plain exterior. It was the perfect escape for some spiritual calm, away from the bustle of the streets outside.

5. Take a Guided Tour of Teatro Solís

Teatro Solís is a neoclassical opera house completed in 1856 and just a block away from Plaza Independencia. I had stepped in for a quick look, and was luckily just in time to join the complimentary guided tour. The guide walked us through the building’s history before showing us into the main auditorium – five tiers of gilded balconies, a full operatic stage, and a seated capacity of 1,100.

6. Make a Footballing Pilgrimage to Estadio Centenario

The Estadio Centenario is hallowed ground that holds a special place in football history. The stadium was built to host the first-ever FIFA World Cup in 1930, which Uruguay won on home soil, defeating Argentina 4-2 before a crowd of 68,000. The stadium still stands largely as it did that day – steep banks of blue hued seats around an open, uncovered pitch. The Museo del Fútbol inside was dense with trophies, photographs and memorabilia from almost a century of Uruguayan football success.

7. Walk the Rambla at Dawn

The Rambla Gran Bretaña is a continuous waterfront promenade stretching 24 kilometres along the Río de la Plata – reputedly the longest in the world. At my dawn walk I was joined by joggers, dog walkers and locals starting the day with a thermos of mate. The spray off the river was deceptively strong, and I learned this the hard way when I walked too close to the edge.

8. Breakfast at Café Brasilero

Café Brasilero has been open since 1877 and is considered the oldest café in Montevideo. It was the ideal stop after my Rambla walk for a Cortado and some Medialunas – local version of croissants that run sweeter. Some of Uruguay’s most celebrated writers would frequent the tables here, so I lingered for a while hoping to absorb some of their literary prowess.

9. Dig into Steak at the Parrillas of Mercado del Puerto

The Mercado del Puerto is a cast-iron market hall built in the 1860s and the best place in the city to eat beef cooked over a parrilla (charcoal bbq grill). I sat at the counter of Cabana Veronica and attempted to work through a humongous cut of beef, washing it down with a glass of the local Tannat red wine varietal. Vegetables were not invited. I also tried a Medio y Medio – a Montevideo lunchtime tradition made from half sparkling wine & half white wine. Afterwards, a nap was in order.

10. Tackle Uruguay’s National Sandwich

The Chivito is Uruguay’s national sandwich – a culinary monstrosity of thinly sliced steak, fried egg, ham, mozzarella, bacon, olives, tomato and mayonnaise, all compressed into a struggling bread roll. All the major food groups are represented. After my parrilla adventures earlier, I decided to just order the mini version hoping for a lighter meal, but that was to no avail.